Monday 26 August 2013

Pools and twisted gums


Just north of Meekatharra we again stopped at Bilyuin Pool. It is a great spot to camp with a long permanent pool in the middle of dry flat mulga country. On both our visits the surrounding country has seemed bare, grey and drought stricken. The pool is on the headwaters of the Murchison River, which true to form for northern rivers, is not so much a river, but more of a watercourse and occasional river. This is station country and the cattle came in for a drink in the morning, and mooched around munching on the green feed in the watercourse, keeping their distance from us of course.


 We camped beside the big pool this time, the other smaller pools were dry this visit.

Our camp is under the white gums on the distant left

There were a different range of birds this time. I loved watching the black-tailed native hens grazing on the short grass on the pool edges and feeding in the shallows. They behave rather like chooks, just very shy, running through the shallows and taking off into the bush when disturbed.


Black-tailed native hens

There were both black fronted dotterels and red kneed dotterels feeding by the water's edge.

Black Fronted Dotterel with worm

Away from the watercourse country I saw pairs of red winged wrens feeding in the shrubs. Black faced cuckoo shrikes blended in beautifully with the colours of the white gums. 


Black-faced cuckoo shrike

I love the forms of massed white gum trunks and the twisted shapes of branches against the blue sky.





More shades of black and white. The ubiquitous willie wagtail. Always cheerfully chirruping and flitting over the water after insects. One morning a willie wagtail attacked a crow down by the waters edge, then four white plumed honeyeaters promptly attached the willy wagtail, chasing it across the water. Nesting season must be in full swing.




And finally, a Nicotiana flower sprouting from a sandy watercourse.





Blue and yellow


Leschenaultia growing on road side


Here is a little bit of colour as we travelled up north, while still in cropping country. 

It reminds me of a story we heard from a fellow traveller. He was given instructions for where to go to see the wonderful wildflowers in the region, which he and his wife did. They took all day and they were thrilled with the colouful display in the bush. The same instructions were given to another couple. They were only gone for a couple of hours at the most. When asked what happened they said 'Oh we saw valleys full of beautiful yellow wildflowers, so we didn't need to go any further.They were stunning.' 


Canola fields

Those fields full of yellow were of course canola fields, not wild flowers. 
So long as they were happy


Prospector and Dreamer

We found a beautiful campsite just out of Mount Magnet, beside a thicket of cool and shady pepper trees, in the ghost town of Lennonville.

We camped on the other side of these pepper trees

It seems William Louis Smith had loved it too. Under the trees in the dense shade was a plaque remembering him: 1910 - 1996, loved father and grandfather, prospector and dreamer. The camp has a freestanding fireplace and hearth; the rectangle in the picture. There are wires strung up on which to hang shadecloth, a comfy chair and tables made from heavy machinery parts.

Camp for dreaming

Above in the trees was an occupied bird of prey nest; we heard the young calling to the parents. I think they were whistling kites. My bird book describes them as scruffy gingery birds. At sunrise three birds sunned themselves in first warming rays. (And a happy camper in William Louis Smith's camp could do the same.) 


Whistling kites 

Lennonville was established in 1898 when gold was found there. In it's heyday it boasted five pubs, and a railway line servicing the population of up to 3,000 people. The Welcome Gold Mine, just two miles north of Lennonville, produced nearly 5,000 ounces of gold.  

Mining ruins

One strike there was particularly rich producing up to seven ounces of gold to the ton of ore. The story goes that a favoured Sunday outing for people was to go to the mine to marvel at the dazzling display of gold in the richest veins. I can just imagine ladies in long skirts and gentlemen in dapper duds ooing and aahing in the heat and dust. 

The only thing left standing in Lennonville




From 1905 the town and gold dwindled in tandem with each other. A fire in 1909 destroyed the main part of town hastening it's decline into a ghost town. 


Lennonville railway platform

As to William Louis Smith, we know nothing more. 
But it surely helps to be a dreamer chasing gold out here; it is a tough environment. 
Then again, perhaps all prospectors are dreamers?


Twisting vine

Thursday 22 August 2013

Jimmy Pike

On the evening before we took off on our holidays we saw the Jimmy Pike exhibition You call it desert, we used to live there at the Albany Museum. It was a set of about fifty artline drawings from the Berndt Museum of Anthropology collection chosen from about 250 drawings in total. The Berndt Museum, part of the University of Western Australia, holds collections of Aboriginal art and cultural materials as well as items from Melanesia, and South East Asia.

This exhibition was timely for us as we are heading up that way as I type this now.

Pike's works were extremely bold and colourful. I was particularly taken by his vibrant flower drawings.


Partiri (flowers)


Partiri (flowers)


Kakarra, Karla,Kayili, Kurlurla
Sunshine on one side, other side dark  

He also painted his traditional country. The image above is sand dune country showing the strong light and shadows that are present there.

Some of his drawings were of traditional cultural stories and he also drew stories from his own life.

Dreamtime story


Headband

Having an Xray

Wirl (Falling star)

Apparently Pike was hit and knocked out by a falling star as a young boy. A strong medicine man revived him. Because of this Pike often drew falling stars and stars as they were an important symbol to him. 

Pike, a member of the Walmajarri people, was born on the edge of the Great Sandy Desert in 1940. He lived a nomadic life with his family until they left the desert to settle on cattle stations in the early 1950's. He was introduced to Western style painting in 1981 and continued to paint until his death in 2002.

Link to a virtual tour of the exhibition here.


Wednesday 21 August 2013

Firing into the night


I have been playing with clay recently something which I have hardly touched since I was still a teenager. Part of the fun this time around has been experimenting with raku and pit firing. All this has was done in the few weeks before we headed off on our holidays.


Raku firing in the rain

Flaming hot!

Looking inside the bin raku kiln

The smoking sawdust before the lid went on

Raku pot which had been thinly glazed in part

Raku pot

Raku pot which had been thinly glazed in part
Pit fire with copper flame visible
All these firings, bar one, went on into the night. A good way to keep warm in the middle of winter.


Pit fired pot which had been painted with cobalt sulphate

Pot which had been painted with iron sulphate solution

Pit fired pot which had been painted with copper sulphate

The raku pots were textured with carved lino blocks with a banksia theme and the pit fired pots were textured with pressings from banksia leaves, nuts and flowers. All this was inspired by some research I had read about. Some CSIRO reseachers had tracked singing honeyeaters to find out where they travelled. They flew up to about twelve kilometres from their normal home range just to get to a small banksia patch to feed on the blossom there. An amazing feat for such tiny birds.


This last photo was taken at Bilyuin Pool last night. Here I am doing an experimental firing and cooking up some textiles at the same time . The pool is in the background reflecting the lovely white eucalypt trunks in the evening light.